Monday, August 2, 2010

Clothing and Grooming



TLE 51

Clothing and grooming


Project

“Blouse making”


Procedures:

  • Make first the pattern of front bodice

  • After making the pattern of front bodice, make the pattern of the sleeve.

  • Make the pattern of the collar.

  • After all the Patterns are made proceeds to the making of the blouse.



Front Bodice


Measurements:

  • Bodice length – it is taken from the shoulder neck point with the tape measure passing over the apex point down to the waist point

  • Shoulder width – taken from one shoulder tip point to the other shoulder tip point

  • Bust – taken around the body with tape measure passing over the apex point at the front part and shoulder blades point at the back part

  • Apex height – taken from the shoulder neck down to the apex point

  • Apex distance – taken from the one apex point to the other apex point

  • Waist – around the natural waistline

  • Armhole – taken around the arm where it joints the body


Procedure:

  • Make a construction line

  • A – is the starting point

  • AB – Bodice length

  • AC – 3” - 3 ½”

  • AL – Apex height

  • AD - ¼ Bust + ¾”

  • AE - ½ shoulder width

  • EF – ½”

  • AH - 3”

  • EG – 1 ½ of the shoulder width is 15” or more 1 ¼ if the shoulder width is less than 15”

  • GI – 4”

  • GIK - ½ armhole + ½

  • LM - ½ apex distance

  • BN - ½ apex distance minus ½

  • NO – 1 ¼ – 1 ½

  • BN + OJ - ¼ waist

  • JP – ½”



Sample of Bodice Pattern








Sleeve


measurements:

  • Sleeve length – taken from the shoulder tip point to the desired length of sleeve

  • Armhole – taken around where the arm joins the body

  • Lower Arm Girth – the circumference of the arm where sleeve swill fall


Procedure

  • AB – sleeve length

  • AC – 5”

  • AD - ½ armhole divide AD into 4 equal parts. Mark EFG respectively

  • EH – ¾” ( outward )

  • FI – 5/8” ( outward )

  • GJ - ½” ( inward )

  • BK - ½ lower arm girth


Sample of sleeve pattern








Materials:

  • Cloth

  • Thread

  • Scissor

  • The patter of Front bodice, Sleeve and Collar


Procedures:

  • Edge stitch the following:

    1. Shoulder seam

    2. Side seam

    3. Lower part of the blouse

  • Sew the dart ( back )

  • Prepare the pocket ( patch with band )

    1. Lay-out the pocket at side

    2. Back stitch dart, hemline and side

  • Sew the dart ( front )

  • Sew the center back collar ( bodice )

  • Sew the center back collar ( facing )

    1. Join the edge of the collar

    2. Slash the seam allowance

    3. Increase the seam allowance

  • Join the shoulder seam ( front and back )

  • Attach the neck edge of collar to the neckline

  • fastened the neck edge of the collar (facing to the neckline of bodice )

  • Sew the side seam ( plain )

  • Prepare the sleeve

    1. Edge stitch the lower portion of sleeve

    2. Join the underarm seam of sleeve ( french )

    3. Attach the sleeve to the armhole

    4. Trim and zigzag the seam allowance

  • Fold the facing towards the right side and stitch

  • Hem the lower portion of the blouse

  • Locate the correct placement of buttonholes

  • Make handwork buttonholes

  • Remove hanging threads

  • Press fit and evaluate the project.


Blouse








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